Twenty-five years ago, gluten free dining was a minefield. People with gluten sensitivities not only lacked choices but often faced hostility. A quarter of a century later, gluten free is now a $700 million industry in Australia. Gluten free menus are no longer an afterthought or token offering; they are an integral part of the dining experience, reflecting changing consumer demands, increased awareness and a more inclusive approach to food service.
For Penny Dellsberger, Health Advocacy Officer for Coeliac Australia and a sufferer of coeliac disease, this change has been welcome. Even small amounts of gluten cause her severe and immediate health issues. “Back in those days, there were no options, no thought given to cross-contamination and certainly no flavoursome meals,” she recalls. “I would go to restaurants and be given the same old sad salad or a steak.”
After much lobbying by groups like Coeliac Australia, along with the introduction of labeling laws, awareness around gluten-related issues increased, driving societal change. Industry veteran Ian Curley, now a hospitality consultant, remembers that time well. “Back in the ‘90s, we used to complain about vegetarians,” says Ian. “But the menu was not complete without meat-free dishes. We were losing customers and came to understand vegetarianism. When we became aware that gluten could be a serious health issue, we followed the same path. We grumbled, but we learned. We came to understand it was part of doing business.”
Ian is proud of the effort that chefs go to in order to ensure the integrity of gluten free products. “There is a lot of flour in kitchens and we go to extreme efforts to avoid cross-contamination to protect people who are coeliac,” he explains. “Some kitchens will have a dedicated deep fryer, for example, so they can fry gluten free schnitzels and fries.” He stresses the importance of a gluten free prep space with separate tools and utensils, clear labeling, and strict cleaning and storage regimes. “Staff training around allergies, all allergies, is a team effort,” he adds.
Victorian restaurateur and former naturopath and nutritionist, Leah Gill, has bullet-proofed her Geelong steakhouse, Emerge, against gluten issues. She recently underwent an extensive transformation to make Emerge 100% gluten free. “We specialise in steak, seafood and fresh produce,” says Leah. “We’re not fine dining, but our offer is a lot more than a pub, and a lot of people don’t realise we’ve completely eliminated gluten from the menu because we have alternatives that taste so good with awesome texture.”
Leah admits that the accreditation process with Coeliac Australia took many hours and incurred costs, but she says the benefits for her team have been worth it. “From our sauces to our sticky date pudding, lasagna and beef Wellington, everything we serve is 100% gluten free,” she says. “This means reading every label of every ingredient for the allergy matrix and ditching anything that says ‘may contain gluten’ because the risk to our customers is not worth it.”
For Penny Dellsberger, she is grateful that chefs like Ian and Leah have gone to the effort to protect her and the other 35,000 people diagnosed with coeliac disease. “We can now sit down with choice and with menus that have specific options for us,” she says. “But it’s still important that we as consumers communicate our medical situation when we book or arrive at a venue,” she adds. “Communication is essential.”
