Lamb springs to the rescue

When choosing a cut, chefs often lean towards familiar ‘primary’ loin cuts like backstraps, racks or cutlets. But it’s wise to consider some of the lesser-known cuts, as these will help you make bank while delighting your customers with a world of flavour!

These so-called ‘secondary’ cuts cost around 50% less, yet they have an equivalent protein yield. One of the newest and tastiest cuts and one of my favourites is the lamb shoulder rack. From under the shoulder and on the bone without the fat cap, the first four ribs are trimmed and Frenched into a perfect four-point rack.

Coming from near the shoulder, this muscle is well-developed and has done some work. This means it cannot be treated the same way as a loin rack. However, the trade-off is that after being expertly cooked, it’s filled with flavour and provides a rewarding eating experience. Try slow-roasting at 160°C for around two and a half hours – or cooking sous vide at 68°C for 12 hours before flashing in the oven or on the grill, à la minute.

Look out for the Emerald Valley brand of products. They love traditional flavours like rosemary, thyme and garlic but are robust enough to take on a Middle Eastern touch of cumin or sumac.  Even Indian flavours such as garam masala or the bold, spicy flavours of Xiang cuisine from Western China, where chilli and Szechuan pepper dominate, work beautifully.

Depending on the seasoning, a medium bodied red such as tempranillo, cool-climate cabernet sauvignon or sangiovese will work well.

While shoulder racks are one of the most exciting new cuts on the block – and some people are even calling them the new lamb shank – there is still excellent value in offering traditional, full-flavoured secondary cuts.

Australia reached peak shank in the early 1990s, dishes like thick-and-tomatoey lamb ragout mixed through pappardelle and napped with garlic-rich gremolata are leading the shank renaissance. Baked in a pie with a buttery pastry crust or slow-cooked in Moroccan spices and served in a tajine with couscous, the humble shank is a timeless crowd-pleaser.

Lamb ribs are another lesser used cut that offers great value. Packed with flavour, they are great smoked BBQ-style and make excellent bar finger food. Packed with flavour and great to get the teeth into, lamb ribs love honey, maple syrup, plum, apricot, bay, rosemary and an array of spices, from Middle Eastern to Indian.

Try marinating overnight in garlic, rosemary and red wine, before cooking for two and half hours in the combi oven. Finish on the grill with a quick roll in a thick, sweet sauce of brown sugar, Worcestershire and a little anchovy paste. These will do the job with beer as much as they will with a medium bodied white wine. 

Perhaps the tastiest cut of lamb though is the least sought after. Lamb neck is a powerhouse of flavour and is great for everything from a French navarin to an Indian curry or even a Spanish stew. For the more adventurous, try boning and rolling, before browning in a pan and braising in a tomato passata.

But the ultimate secondary cut of lamb is the shoulder. Square cut with the neck on, try marinating or rubbing with spices before being slow-cooked to perfection. After a flash of heat to create some dark, chewy, caramelised bark, you’ll have a succulent, tender, versatile and deeply delicious piece of protein. Carved and served with spuds and salad, or shredded to fill a crusty roll stuffed with tangy coleslaw, lamb shoulder can be dressed up for a pub dish or served as a crowd-pleasing favourite at any catering event.

While everyone is looking for the new lamb shank, these lesser-loved cuts of lamb can fill the gap for different chefs working in hospitality and foodservice. Inexpensive, versatile and truly delicious, these secondary cuts of lamb are popular with punters and offer better margins. So why not take the opportunity to highlight spring lamb by showcasing the full potential of these outstanding cuts.